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Some say the green-and-white Coach House, Paynes Bay (on the main Bridgetown-Holetown road, just south of Sandy Lane, about 6 miles north of Bridgetown), St. James (tel. 246/432-1163), is 200 years old. Attracting mostly visitors, this is a Bajan version of an English pub, with an outdoor garden bar. From 6 to 10:30pm, you can order bar meals, including flying-fish burgers, priced at $8 and up. Most nights, there's live music--everything from steel bands to jazz, pop, and rock, attracting an attentive crowd from 9pm on. The lunchtime buffet, offered Monday through Friday ($14), is popular.

* John Moore Bar, on the waterfront, Weston, St. James (tel. 246/422-2258), is the most atmospheric and least pretentious bar on Barbados. It's the nerve center of this waterfront town, filled throughout the day and night with a congenial group of neighborhood residents, with a scattering of foreigners. Most visitors opt for a rum punch or beer, but you can order up a platter of local fish as long as you don't mind waiting.

Head for Upstairs at Olives, Holetown, St. James (tel. 246/432-2112), where you can order excellent drinks while seated in an atmosphere of potted palms and old-fashioned ceiling fans that's straight out of Casablanca.