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Climate Control Artistry:
Effective Moisture-Proof Makeup
Submitted By
Suzanne Patterson
Foreverwed.com Beauty Expert
Many brides often face the problem of
making sure the work of art done on their faces for their wedding day is not only flawless
and natural looking, but can survive ambient factors such as long hours, various climate
elements, and assorted lighting conditions. What
does that mean? The makeup application needs
continuity (long wearing) over the course of the day
and under all light settings (sunlight, indoor light, studio style lighting, and flash). Climate conditions and humidity add to the mix,
and don't forget to toss in the range of the emotions that can add to skin reactions. Makeup choices need to be highly moisture
resistant, even waterproof. Waterproof? That
means no runs, no drips, and no errors whether she cries, sweats, or gets wet. The products you choose and how you apply them
will make all the difference in the long run. What
are some of these essentials in moisture resistant makeup?
Whether you choose to do your makeup yourself, or hire a professional
artist, the same principles apply.
Let's start with one of the most
important ingredients, the foundation, or base. Gel
or water type bases tend to streak, dilute or dissolve under moisture conditions. Although there have been great improvements in liquid foundation ingredients in the last few
years to give them more staying power on skin, they are still much lower in pigment
content. A cream/cake type foundation with a
high ratio of oil to pigment in it (the kind most professional multi-media makeup artists
use) would be the ideal choice for long wear, and in heat and moisture conditions. You will want a product that adheres to the skin
effectively and set well with powder. Look
for foundations that are castor and/or vegetable (soybean) oil based, as these tend not to
be occlusive to skin. It may also contain
octyl palmitate, a non toxic organic compound that is widely used for it's texturing
properties, and copolymers to further enhance moisture resistance. The beauty of this type of foundation is that you
can control the application needed, from a very sheer translucency to complete coverage. One ingredient you want to avoid is isopropyl
myristate, a compound that can cause blackheads and skin sensitivity. Also, if a moisturizer is worn under makeup, be
sure it is a water-based product. Oil based
moisturizers leave a residue that will prevent these types of foundations from adhering to
skin properly, and will tend to allow the foundation to "slide". Also keep in mind that cheap is not always best as
you may be buying less pigment and more binders/fillers that may contain ingredients that
can cause the product to oxidize on the skin.
The right powder is the next important
ingredient to moisture resistant makeup, to set foundation and help it maintain wear
throughout the day. It is vital to choose a
powder that will not cake under humid conditions or repeated touchups. Look for powders that contain ingredients that can
absorb moisture, such as a kaolin and cornstarch blends which helps keeps the oils
absorbed and adhered to the skin. Loose
powders that are multi-sifted or microfine is preferred, and will provide a more smooth
and even application. Dimethicone, a silicone
type compound, is an important ingredient in powder that seals and repels moisture without
caking.
Look for cream based blush colors
(whether in stick, cake, or cream to powder form) that contain micronized silicates or
dimethicone. This will ensure a smooth
application and a soft look. One good trick here is to softly apply a neutral flush tone color
that is barely visible. Then, take a dry
powder blush in the same tone and sweep over to set, giving the look of a slight innocent
glow to skin.
Eye shadows have also improved, with
better ingredients for longer wear. Those that come in tubes or sticks tend to be better
choices when applying a heat or moisture resistant makeup because of their oil base
content, and they wear well under these conditions.
Most powder or cake-applied shadows will wash, bleed, or fade off the lid
unless they contain stabilizing ingredients for wear like dimethicone or other polymers
that can repel moisture. The down side is
that they tend to crease, so be sure to apply a good lid primer to start with. Lid primers
seal in natural moisture and allow a more even color application and blending, as well as
locking pigment on and discouraging oil breakthrough and creasing.
Your best moisture resistant method in
application for shaping and filling in brows is to use an oil and wax base pencil in the
process. Then, set with a matching powder
brow color or eye shadow, and seal with a brow fixative. A makeup artist trick in applying
brow color from a pencil is to use a small but very stiff
haired brush (boar bristle is ideal) and brush the hair tips several times
across the pencil tip to take up color. Then,
apply to brow to fill in where needed. This
allows you to control the application for a more natural looking brow. Next, apply a product that is brow fixative
specific, NOT clear mascara. True brow
fixatives have a water tight and heat resistant quality, and keeps brow hair firmly in
place, so be sure you know the difference! If your brows need a bit of "training" to
stay in their shape, a brow fixative is a must.
Just about any makeup brand these days
are making waterproof types of eye and lip pencils. Look
for a high silicone content in the first few ingredients such as cyclomethicone,
dimethicone, and copolymers rather than wax content (which tends to make it dissolve more
easily.) This is especially important for the
lip pencils.
There is also a good selection of
liquid type liners that are waterproof, and cake applied liner can be moistened and
applied with liquid sealer. Another way you
can slide-proof your pencil eyeliner application is by setting it with a matching dry
shadow. The trick is to smooth out a pencil
applied liner with a synthetic type brush, then go back over the line with a dry, silicone
type shadow in the same color. Just about
any brand of mascara is made in a waterproof formula, but know the difference between
"waterproof" and "water resistant".
They also have differing consistencies, as waterproof mascaras are thinner
on the build for lashes. What works here is
to apply your favorite lash building formula first, and use a final coating of water proof
mascara.
Lip color always presents the problem
of feathering, bleeding, smudging, or getting "kissed off," never mind being
waterproof! There are several basic tricks to
keep in mind for a longer wearing application that can stand up to a lot of action on your
wedding day! Choose a good lip color brand, one that is not too creamy and not too thick,
and has more of an oil base (castor, lanolin, and vegetable, etc.) rather than heavy on
the waxes (beeswax, candelilla, caranauba, etc.) . This combination allows color to stay
brilliant while locking pigment into place. Avoid
the use of matte lipsticks altogether, because in a heat and moisture situation they can
be very drying and make the lips look and feel caked, especially by the end of the day.
Begin by applying a good primer, as
this will give extra grip power to lip color. Next,
apply a waterproof lip liner, and also fill in lips lightly. Place a tissue over lips and apply loose powder
to the area with a fluff brush. Remove, and reline lips. Apply a light coat of lip color
and again, apply loose powder through tissue. Finish
with an additional application of lip color. At this point you may choose to use a lip
sealer product, but the downside of using lip sealers is they dry the lips out fairly
quickly and may end up peeling off with the lip color.
Touching up lip color over sealer is not effective. Lip glosses also tend to collect on lips giving a
grainy or peely type feel to lips. If you do
insist on some gloss effect for your lip color, better budge-proof protection with a bit
of a shine is to apply a thin film of a product called Bag Balm* instead of a sealer. Bag Balm* is also great for waterproofing or
sealing lip color applied by lip pencils. Don't
confuse this item with other ordinary lip balms, this is a specialty product originally
formulated for veterinary use that has also found its way as a beauty product. It contains healing ingredients that have stay
power, while keeping lips moist.
One final suggestion to insure against
any streaking attacks from moisture and heat is to borrow a little something from Mother
Nature herself. Set the finished makeup
application with a light mist of distilled or bottled water sprayed lightly on the face. Wait a few moments and blot any excess gently with
a tissue wrapped around a powder puff, and your makeup masterpiece can look and wear fresh
even in the most humid of conditions.
*Bag Balm is a salve type of product,
and can be found in most drug stores.
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